A 12 km circular route from Hostomice around the legendary Brdy hill of Velká Baba (615m)
- It is well known that Czech mountain ranges are protected by supernatural guardian spirits. Watching over the forested landscape of the Brdy highlands is the former knight, Fabián, sometimes known as Babí Jan. Fabián’s restless ghost is believed to wander the slopes of Velká Baba, at the far end of the Hřebeny ridge. The knight was cursed by his lover, Megera, after he spurned her in favour of a beautiful young noble woman, Medulina. Megera summoned evil forest spirits to help her destroy Fabián’s castle and curse the knight into a Brdy spirit. Medulina was apparently transformed into a herb.
- Fabián’s legendary hill can be easily climbed on one of two trails that set off from the historic town of Hostomice (pod Brdy). It is approximately 6 km to the summit on either trail, so this creates an opportunity for a nice circular walk. Just below the summit of Velká Baba there is a rock formation called Fabiánovo lože (Fabián’s bed), the legendary site of the knight’s castle.
- There is a viewpoint just a few steps from the summit area, with views over Hostomice and towards Plešivec hill (654m), which is topped with an important Bronze Age hillfort. The viewpoint can be quite windy – some would attribute the surprisingly chilly gusts to Fabián’s malign influence!
- Hřebeny is a protected nature area located to the south west of Prague, stretching from Zbraslav and finishing close to Příbram. Geologically, the ridge is part of the Brdy highlands, made up of very old (400 to 600 million years old) sedimentary rock. However, Hřebeny has a slightly different character to the rest of the Brdy area, being somewhat lower in elevation. The forests are an attractive mix of coniferous and deciduous trees and the views from the ridge and highest points are definitely worth seeking out.
- The lower sections of the trails are mostly on open meadow footpaths (which are often muddy), whereas the trails on the hill are on good, easy forest footpaths. The total route involves around 280m of height to ascend/descend. There are no refreshment spots directly on the route, but Hostomice does have a couple of refreshment options, including the excellent Kafárna café/bistro on the main square (map point 6).
- Note: For a longer walk in the Hřebeny hills, also starting and finishing in Hotomice, consider the following 24 km trail, which also traverses Velká Baba.
Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’ above to go to a full screen version directly on the mapy.cz site. This can be used for online navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file
Directions
- Hostomice is on a regional train line (starting in Zadní Třebaň – which has frequent connections to Prague). There are also regular bus connections from Dobříš and Řevnice to the Hostomice town square – where there are some parking spaces for those driving
- Starting in the town square of Hostomice, join the BLUE trail in the direction of Křižatky
- After 1.3 km the trail leaves the village streets and crosses the meadows towards the hills
- Stay on the BLUE trail to reach the settlement of Zátor after 1.4 km
- From Zátor, the trail climbs steadily up the peak of Baba. After 2.1 km as the path levels out near the top of the hill there is a diversion sign to the Fabiánovo lože rocks
- From the summit, continue downhill on the BLUE trail to reach the Pod Velkou Babou junction and there turn right onto the YELLOW trail
- Follow the YELLOW trail downhill for 2.4 km to reach the Běštín – háj junction and there turn right onto the GREEN trail, which leads back to Hostomice town square after 3.2 km


