Týnec nad Sázavou, Kostalec ruins and Grybla forest: 8 km to 17 km tours

• The picturesque Sázava river is lined with medieval castles, romantic ruins and dark stone fortresses. Some of the best examples are to be found near the historical town of Týnec nad Sázavou, which is ringed by low hills and ancient forests.
• Týnec itself has one of the best preserved Romanesque castles in Bohemia, dating from the late 12th century. It was probably a royal castle built by a Přemyslid monarch. Even older is the 11th century Rotunda that is attached to the castle tower. Both of these protected buildings – which are important at a European level – are open for visits as part of the museum tour.
• Just 3 km to the north along the river, the ruins of Kostalec castle overlook a bend in the Sázava river from a rocky outcrop. Kostalec was probably built by King Václav (Wenceslas) II at the end of the 13th century, possibly as a counter to Týnec which was no longer under the control of the Přemyslid dynasty. Kostalec was a large and powerful fortress, which nevertheless changed hands frequently over the following two centuries until captured in 1450 by Zdeněk Konopišťský, head of the powerful Šternberk family.
• Konopišťský controlled several of the strongest fortresses in Bohemia, and was a key figure in the politics of the time. Initially a supporter of the newly elected reformist King Jiří of Poděbrady, Konopišťský gradually became disillusioned with the reforms imposed by the new king, particularly the increased influence of the towns and lower nobility. In 1465 Konopišťský formed a union of major Catholic houses to oppose the King, and this led to major clashes between the Catholic party, supported by the Hungarian King Matthias Corvín, and forces loyal to Jiří of Poděbrady. In 1467, the King’s forces besieged several of the Šternberk family fortresses, including Kostalec. The castle was captured and its defenses systematically dismantled. Kostalec was never occupied again.
• Today, the ruins of Kostalec castle form a romantic backdrop to the sweeping curves of the Sázava river. The short climb to the ruins is worthwhile for the wide ranging views, and intriguing castle remains. The site is important at a European level due to the archaeological evidence of the 1467 siegeworks.
• From Kostalec, the suggested route traverses firstly the Čížov and then the Grybla nature reserves. These are protected forest areas, mostly comprising beech trees, which are natural to this hilly terrain built from ancient granite rock. Ice age weathering of the surface rocks have left many picturesque moss covered examples of rounded granite boulders in the forests. The route circles around to the Panská skala viewpoint, perched on a granite outcrop, and then descends gently to Týnec.
• Týnec can be reached by train directly from Prague central station and by bus from Budějovice metro station. There are also car parking areas close to the river on the northern bank (close to the bus and train station) . The total proposed route is 16.8 km with 400m of height gained/lost on the journey. It is possible to skip the Čížov and then the Grybla nature reserves sections, and circle directly back to Týnec from Kostalec. This shorter route is around 7.5 km long with 180m of height difference.
• On the route there is a well regarded restaurant Brodiente reached after 1.6km and several good refreshment options in Týnec, but definitely worth stopping at either at the start or finish of the walk (or both!) is the excellent ice cream stand opposite Lidl, on the north side of the river, 100m from the bridge. This is close to the parking/train and bus stations.
• Týnec also has a well regarded hotel (the hotel Týnec) directly overlooking the Sázava river, which is worth considering if wanting to explore the area.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’  to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

• Starting at the Týnec train or bus station (or the nearby car parks) cross the Sázava river using the main road bidge and head into town following the BLUE hiking trail
• Climb up the main street and stop to visit the castle and rotonda on the left side
• From the castle, continue on the BLUE trail in the direction of Pecerady, down the steps to the river and then along the Sázava path for 400m to reach the main road. At this point, leave the BLUE trail which heads east away from the river and follow the public road (and cycle path) which follows the river northwards. After 100m pass the restuarant Brodiente on the left
• Continue along the road, following the cycle path markers for 2.3km to reach the footbridge over the river. Cross the bridge to join the RED trail below the ruins of Kostalec castle, where there is a campsite (and occasional refreshment stand)
• At the Zbořený Kostelec trail junction join the GREEN trail heading uphill to the castle ruins. Take the small diversion to see the ruins – the views are excellent (see pictures below)
• If taking the shorter route, from the castle return down the hill to the Zbořený Kostelec trail junction and take the RED trail for 500m to Holý vrch and the take the BLUE trail back to Týnec.
• For the longer route, from the castle continue uphill on the GREEN trail in the direction of Čakovice. The village is reached after 2.6 km
• From Čakovice, follow the GREEN trail along the public road for 1.1 km until there is a forest clearing on the left side. The GREEN trail turns sharply left at this point away from the road. The turn is not easy to spot (point 11 on the map above)
• Stay on the GREEN trail as it is climbs through the forest area for 1.4 km until reaching the trail junction of Pod Gryblou
• If wanting to visit the viewpoint of Panská skala, follow the marked trail for 500m (on the BLUE and then RED trails) to reach the viewpoint and then return back to the Pod Gryblou junction
• From Pod Gryblou follow the BLUE trail for 6 km all the way back to Týnec and the station area. Note – the ice cream stall is 200m from the station areas just next to Lidl!