* A fine circular route from Mšeno via Houska, Vráteň hill, and Lobeč: 21 km*

• This is an extended version of the medium length Houska to Lobeč walk, described separately. The advantage of the route on this page is that it is circular and combines even more features of the remarkable Kokořínsko nature reserve, including a start/finish in Mšeno, notable for its famous art deco town spa.
• From Mšeno, the route heads north through the sandstone rock regions to reach the village of Houska where there is a fine castle-chateau (which offers guided tours from April to October). Although currently having a Renaissance appearance, the castle has an early Gothic core, and was likely founded by Přemysl Otakar II in the early 13th century at the same time as nearby Bezděz castle. The fortified site is believed to be much older than that and the reason for its foundation remains something of a mystery. Just past the chateau is a famous view over the forests of Kokořínsko towards Říp hill from a sandstone rock cliff.
• On the way to Houska there is an option to divert into two rock labyrinths situated just outside Mšeno. These trails are not included in the route map shown below, primarily because they are more challenging than the rest of this walk, due to the extensive step sections. However, for those want a ‘full’ Kokořínsko experience they are worth including. Comments on these trails are included in the linked page.
• From Houska, the suggested route circles back to Mšeno via Vrátenská hora (507m), the highest point in the Mělník region. There is a viewing tower on the hill which is normally open daily from May to November and at weekends at other times of the year. There are fine views from the top of the nearby volcanic hills, including the peak topped by the impressive Bezděz castle.
• Continuing on the trail over Vráteň hill gives a chance to see some well preserved 18th and 19th century timbered houses in Nosálov village (these are fine examples of the so called ‘hop houses’) and a little further on is the village of Lobeč, with its reconstructed Renaissance brewery (offering tours as well as a pub service) and a Baroque chateau (now operating as a hotel, with an unusual 15th century wine cellar carved into the sandstone rock).
• Also in Lobeč is a small, but interesting museum (map point 8) dedicated to life of former resident, Eduard Štorch, the early 20th century Czech author. The museum is free but is unmanned and requires an access code, acquired at least a day in advance. Štorch was the first ever novelist to set his stories in the Stone Age periods. His most famous work, published in 1918, is Lovci mamtů (The Mammoth Hunters).
• The full trip (excluding the rock labyrinths) is around 21 km long, with around 500m of height to ascend-descend. Unless taking the labyrinth paths there are no steep or difficult sections to navigate. There are several good refreshment options on the trip, including a small summer pub in Houska as well as the brewery in Lobeč (map point 7). In Mšeno center, there is an excellent coffee and cake shop, the Cukrárna U Živných a měšťáků (map point 10) and on the other side of the church a popular ice cream parlor, Zmrzlinový ráj (map point 9).

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’  to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

• Starting at Mšeno, join the yellow-white striped trail called Cinibulkova stezka heading towards Mšeno – koup, which is reached after 700m
• At this point the Cinibulkova stezka branhes left – only take this route if wanting to divert on one of the labyrinth trails. Otherwise, join the GREEN hiking trail heading towards Houska
• After 5 km reach the Rozc. pod Drnclíkem junction and there join the RED trail heading to Houska
• After 1.3 km reach the Houska – rozc junction and there turn left onto the BLUE trail towards the castle
• The castle is reached in 600m and the viewpoint is a further 400m along the BLUE trail. Return back to the Houska – rozc after these visits
• From the Houska – rozc junction take the BLUE trail in the direction of Rozhledna Vrátenská hora
• The viewing tower is reached after 2 km. From there, remain on the BLUE trail, heading through Lobeč, to return directly back to Mšeno