Exploring historic Mělník, a 6km tour along both banks of the river Labe

• Mělník is one of Bohemia’s oldest and most historic towns. Strategically situated at the confluence of the rivers Labe and Vltava on a promontory with steep terraces, Mělník town was probably founded by the Slavic Pšovan tribe sometime prior to the 9th century. This short walk explores the highlights of this unique town, offering a variety of views of the old town, its ancient vineyards, and the rivers flowing beneath the terraces.
• The complex and interesting geology of the region is also worth exploring while visiting Mělník. The intriguing tour of the underground medieval storage system reveals the sandstone layers that were deposited during the Cretaceous period, some 90 million years ago, when the whole Bohemian basin was covered in a shallow sea.
• The walk starts in Mělník old town, dominated by the current Renaissance chateau, now owned by the Lobkowicz family. This is, however, the site of a much older Pšovan wooden castle, which was replaced in the 10th century by a stone fortification. In this castle, around 860AD, Ludmila was born to the last Pšovan prince, Slavibor. Ludmila (later St. Ludmila) became the bride of the Přemyslid prince, Bořivoj and together they became the first Christian rulers of Bohemia.
• Mělník has been associated with Bohemian queens and princesses since that time, and over the subsequent centuries, the castle (and neighboring estate of Hořín) became home to several female members of the ruling families.
• After parking in a convenient city centre car park (or walking to the centre from the train station), the entry to the old town should be through the Pražská brána (Prague gate) the oldest surviving part of the medieval fortifications. The tower also houses the well-known Ve Věži cafe, for beginning or end of trip refreshments.
• The attractive streets in the old town should be explored at leisure (either at the beginning or end of the walk) , possibly including a visit to the underground system, as well as the Renaissance castle with its ancient wine cellars, and the Gothic lookout tower in the Church of St Peter & Paul.
• For the best views of the terraces, the vineyards and the rivers below, the proposed route follows the footpath which runs beneath the castle walls, and then curves round the ancient vineyards that are believed to have been in place for over a thousand years (the 14th century Bohemian King and Holy Roman Emperor, Charles IV, even imported vines from the legendary vineyards in Gevrey Chambertin, Burgundy, to refresh the vineyards at Mělník) .
• The route passes under the vineyards and crosses the Labe on the old road bridge, and then circles around the English-style Hořínský park, with its Baroque Chateau (not currently open to visitors).
• The route then returns along the historic Vraňany – Hořín Canal, which was constructed at the start of the 20th century, passing the art deco embellished Hořín lock, before crossing the river again and climbing back up the terraces to the old town.
• The total route described above is just over 6 km long with around 100m of height to ascend-descend. The section beside the canal is not really suitable for strollers. There are several good restaurants and cafés in Mělník. In addition to the Ve Věži cafe, try Cukrárna Cake art on náměstí Míru, which has excellent cakes and ice cream.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’  to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

• If driving to Mělník, park at one of the paid parking areas just outside the old town centre. The parking area at náměstí Karla IV. is one of the larger areas, and conveniently situated for the start of the route, close to the Pražská brána (the old main gate to the medieval town)
• If taking the train to Mělník main train station, follow the YELLOW trail through the Na Podolí park and then the RED trail in the direction of Mělník zámek. This route passes through the Pražská brána (note: the walk from the train station to the old town is 1.8km)
• From the Pražská brána, walk through the impressive náměstí Míru, leaving the square on the Legionářů street (on which the underground system has its entrance, next to the information centre)
• 50m past the information centre, join the YELLOW walking trail, which turns left into the Na Aušperku street, and then follows along the top of the vineyard, below the castle walls (there are several viewpoints along the way)
• Just below the Gothic lookout tower attached to the church of St Peter & Paul, join the GREEN trail which continues along the top of the vineyard for 300m, before reaching a crossroads. Turn sharply right onto the K Mostu street, which descends through the vineyard to the river and the old road bridge
• At the bridge, rejoin the YELLOW trail, and cross the bridge.
• Immediately after crossing the bridge turn left, staying on the YELLOW trail in the shortest route to the zámek Hořín, which is reached 800m from the road bridge
• At the signpost outside the Chateau gates, turn left still on the YELLOW trail in the direction of the Zdymadla (lock), which is reached after 600m
• At the lock the (YELLOW trail) path turns left and follows the canal and joins the Labe. Continue on this trail to return back to the old road bridge.
• Cross the bridge for the second time and carry on directly up the winding path through the Na Aušperku Park (still on the YELLOW trail). This path leads back to the the Legionářů street, and the old town.
• Retrace the outbound route to the parking area (or train station).