*All roads lead to…Karlštejn: the nicest approach to Bohemia’s No.1 castle – a 9 km trip*

All roads lead to…Karlštejn: the nicest approach to Bohemia’s No.1 castle – a 9 km trip

Karlštejn castle is one of the ‘must see’ sites in the Czech Republic. The Gothic masterpiece was constructed as a royal residence during the 14th century reign of Bohemia’s most successful monarch, Charles IV. The castle was restored in the 19th century and is one of the most striking medieval fortresses in Central Europe.
As a consequence, Karlštejn attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. In the summer months the car parks are often overflowing and the narrow streets packed with souvenir-hunting tourists. A visit to Karlštejn is rarely a tranquil affair, at least not during weekends or holiday periods.
However, it is possible to experience the magic of Karlštejn without the crowds. Visit on a weekday in the winter months and the place will be almost deserted. Also consider avoiding the busy car parks near the castle by taking the train from Prague main station – it is just a 45 minute scenic journey along the photogenic Berounka river to Karlštejn train station.
Even better, get off the train one stop before Karlštejn at the pretty village of Zadní Třebaň and walk over the hill to enjoy a majestic view of the castle. Then climb up to the Karlštejn fortress walls and then carry on through classic Český kras forest terrain to reach the riverside train station of Srbsko, one stop after Karlštejn. This route is just 9km long (and involves 270m of height gained/lost) mostly on easy forest or meadow tracks.
There are many options for refreshments along the route. Karlštejn village and castle area seems to have a restaurant or snack bar in every second house. One authentic restaurant usually without vast crowds is the Pod Dračí skálou located 6 minutes walk from the castle – directly on the footpath which ultimately leads to Srbsko. A recommended alternative (for those who can wait until nearly the end of the walk) is the riverside restaurant of U Berounky with its attractive terrace overlooking the Berounka in Srbsko.

Directions

Start the walk at Zadní Třebaň railway station – one stop before the Karlštejn station (there are regular direct trains to Zadní Třebaň from Prague’s main station)
Take the YELLOW hiking trail in the direction of Karlštejn, immediately crossing over the Berounka on the footbridge. There is a fine view up and downstream from the bridge
Walk through the attractive village of Zadní Třebaň, which has several fine examples of folk architecture, following the YELLOW trail up the hill along the public road
After 1 km, the trail turns off the public road and continues to climb the hill towards Karlštejn on a farm track
Just after reaching the top of the hill, the watchtower of Karlštejn comes into view, and then progressively the whole castle is revealed
Continue down the hill – sometimes steeply -on the YELLOW trail to reach the main street of Karlštejn village (3.2 km from Zadní Třebaň station)
At the Karlštejn – pod hradem trail signpost, join the RED trail and head towards Karlštejn (Hrad) – the castle entrance is 400m up the hill and a short walk along an old medieval street today filled with snack bars and tourist shops
After visiting the castle continue on the RED trail in the direction of Dub sedmi bratří, descending on the narrow footpath to the stream valley on the wooded western flank of Karlštejn hill
The trail joins a quiet public road in the valley and after 50m, the restaurant Pod Dračí skálou is on the right side
From the restaurant stay on the RED trail, which leaves the road after 200m to climb the left side of the valley, reaching the Dub sedmi bratří signpost in 300m (this is the site of the 350 year old oak tree under which legend has it that seven highwaymen brothers buried their loot)
From the oak tree, stay on the RED trail as it continues to climb and then descends – quite steeply – to the next valley in attractive forest landscape, to reach the trail signpost of Kubrychtova bouda after 2.2km
At the Kubrychtova bouda junction, join the BLUE trail and head in the direction of Srbsko village, which is reached after 2.1 km
To the right of the bridge, the riverside restaurant of U Berounky is located. It has an attractive terrace area and is worth a stop
Cross the bridge over the Berounka. The Srbsko railway station (direct trains back to Prague) is 100m on the right after crossing the river