Houska, Vráteň hill, Nosálov and Lobeč – rarely visited sites in Kokořínsko: 3 km to 14 km

• The Kokořínsko nature reserve is probably mostly known for its remarkable sandstone rock features. However, there are many other sites worth visiting in the area. This walk combines several of them, including the remarkable Gothic-Renaissance chateau of Houska, some fine folk architecture in the villages of Lobeč and Nosálov, a 500 year old brewery and a famous view towards the legendary hill of Říp.
• For those wanting just a short walk, drive to the village of Houska and walk up to the chateau (which offers guided tours from April to October). Although currently having a Renaissance appearance, the castle has an early Gothic core, and was likely founded by Přemysl Otakar II in the early 13th century at the same time as nearby Bezděz castle. The fortified site is believed to be much older than that and the reason for its foundation remains something of a mystery. Just past the chateau is a famous view over the forests of Kokořínsko towards Říp hill from a sandstone rock cliff.
• The trip to the viewpoint and back to the carpark is around 2.5 km. For a slightly longer trip, instead of returning to the carpark, continue past Houska across the meadows to visit the viewing tower on Vrátenská hora (507m), the highest point in the Mělník region. It is open daily from May to November and at weekends at other times of the year. There are fine views from the top of the nearby volcanic hills, including the peak topped by the impressive Bezděz castle.
• Continuing on the trail over Vráteň hill gives a chance to see some well preserved 18th and 19th century timbered houses in Nosálov village (these are fine examples of the so called ‘hop houses’) and a little further on is the village of Lobeč, with its reconstructed Renaissance brewery (offering tours as well as a pub service) and a Baroque chateau (now operating as a hotel, with an unusual 15th century wine cellar carved into the sandstone rock).
• Also in Lobeč is a small, but interesting museum dedicated to life of former resident, Eduard Štorch, the early 20th century Czech author. The museum is free but is unmanned and requires an access code, acquired at least a day in advance. Štorch was the first ever novelist to set his stories in the Stone Age periods. His famous work, published in 1918, is Lovci mamtů (The Mammoth Hunters).
• The full trip is around 14 km in length, with 370m of height to ascend-descend, mostly on easy forest or meadow footpaths. There is no obvious circular route, so this walk is mostly a ‘there and back’ route (although there is a short cut around Vrátenská hora on the return journey to avoid a double ascent of the hill). If planning on doing the full walk, instead of beginning at the somewhat remote village of Houska, consider starting at Lobeč, as it is easier to access from Mšeno (by bus) or by car from the D10 highway.
• There are several refreshment options on the trip, including a small summer pub in Houska as well as the brewery in Lobeč and a restaurant next to the Lobeč chateau.
• Notes – if starting at Lobeč then a very visible landmark on the journey is the superbly reconstructed 19th century windmill near Vrátno (see picture below). For a longer (circular) version of this walk, consider the 21 km route starting from Mšesno, which is described here.

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Directions

• Starting at Houska follow the RED trail up the lane signposted to the chateau. After 100m join the BLUE trail which continues for 500m to the chateau entrance
• From the chateau, the viewpoint is reached after continuing 300m on the BLUE trail
• Return back the same route to Houska
• For the Vrátenská hora viewing tower continue on the BLUE trail from Houska (in the opposite direction to the chateau). The viewpoint is reached after 2.3 km
• Continue on the BLUE trail for 1.8 km to reach Nosálov village and from there, Lobeč is reached after a further 2.3 km, also on the BLUE trail
• Return back the same route, but to avoid the re-ascent of Vrátenská hora, take the YELLOW trail short cut around the hill, which is found at the Nosálov – záp. okraj junction, just outside the village