*Discovering caves in Český kras, a traverse from Popovice to Srbsko: 12 km to 18 km*
- The Český kras Protected Landscape Area (PLA) is the closest large nature zone to Prague and is a super area for walking. The rugged hills comprising 400-million-year-old limestone have been sculpted over millennia into canyon-like valleys by multiple streams and the fast-flowing Berounka river.
- Groundwater seeping into the limestone has also created the largest system of caves in the country, of which the most famous are the Koněprusy caves, located in the hills above Beroun. These are open for guided tours from April to November.
- There are many smaller caves and other dramatic limestone terrain to be discovered in the area. A nice way to explore the best of the limestone features is to make a traverse from the western side of the PLA into the center of the nature area, making use of the regional train network for a one way trip.
- A good starting point is Králův Dvůr-Popovice station (on the regional Plzeň/Beroun train line). The traverse on the YELLOW hiking trail starting at Popovice climbs into the hills, passing Koněprusy caves and finishes at the Srbsko train station. This route is between 12 km and 18 km long depending on how many diversions to caves and other sites are made during the trip.
- Starting from Popovice, the first potential diversion is to Koukolova hora (471m) a peak which has some of the highest caves in the area. The peak was extensively quarried in the past, and the rock walls have now become climbing terrain. The hilltop used to offer a good panorama, but the mature trees now obscure the view.
- The next stop is the spectacular Aksamitova brána, largest rock gate in the region. In the past this was probably a large cave, whose ceiling collapsed. There is evidence of Iron Age occupation of the site. Just a short walk up from the rock gate, the ramparts of the ancient Kotýz hillfort can be discovered. The site was fortified in the late Bronze Age (some 3000 years ago) and occupied at various times through the Iron Age and again by Slavic settlers in the early Middle Ages. There is a super view from the hilltop.
- There are a number of caves in the area of the hillfort which appear to have been used as shelters by a number of prehistoric cultures. The famous Děravá cave was occupied as early as 13000 years ago by Magdalenian culture hunter-gatherers, who left behind unique engraved slates, including a remarkable image of a horned ibex.
- Soon after Kotýz hill, the trail reaches the Koněprusy caves entrance. The caves run throughout the Zlatý kůň (475 m) hill and are definitely worth visiting. The visit takes around an hour.
- One fascinating discovery in the caves was the remains of a 40,000+ year old skeleton (the so called Zlatý kůň woman) who was likely buried – or fell – into a limestone crack in the surface of the hill. The almost intact skull has recently been genetically sequenced, revealing that this individual was one of the earliest modern humans so far found in Central Europe. Interestingly, the population group that this individual belonged to appears not to have contributed genetically to either later European or Asian populations. One intriguing theory is that much of the population of Central Europe around 40000 years ago died out due to the effects of a massive volcanic eruption in the Mediterranean basin (the Campanian Ignimbrite eruption).
- Close to the entrance of Koněprusy caves is the start of the Zlatý kůň nature trail, a rugged 3 km circuit in the old limestone quarries, including an atmospheric section though an old mining tunnel. This is an optional diversion, but is definitely worthwhile.
- From Zlatý kůň, the trail heads towards the Koda nature reserve with its attractive canyon-like valleys and oak dominated woodland. Just off the main trail, it is worth diverting to visit Koda cave, which was inhabited at various times by ice age hunter gatherers, through to the high Middle Ages (15th century Hussite coins have been found in the cave).
- From Koda, the trail descends to the Berounka river, where the Srbsko train station is located. Before boarding a train to return to Prague (or Beroun), it is worth crossing the river to find some refreshments at one of the excellent restaurants in Srbsko village. Try the Restaurant U Berounky, which has an attractive (summer) terrace overlooking the river or the restaurant U kapličky, with its homemade Czech cuisine.
- If all the suggested diversions are taken, the total route is 17.6 km, with 580m of height to climb and 590m to descend. Some sections of the route are quite steep and can be slippery, so care is needed – particularly on the ascent to Kotýz hillfort.
Note: click ‘Show on map’ above to go to a full screen version directly on the mapy.cz site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file
Directions
- Starting at the Popovice train station, join the YELLOW trail heading in the direction of Koukolova hora
- After 1.2 km, at the Koukolova hora – rozc. junction, there is an option to take the 300m diversion to the summit area and then return to the junction
- Descend from the hill remaining on the YELLOW trail to reach the Havlíčkův mlýn junction after 2 km [note the spring nearby which is well known for its mineral water]
- Continue on the YELLOW trail very steeply uphill to reach the Aksamitova brána after 500m and after a further 100m the Jelínkův most junction
- At Jelínkův most there is an option to explore the area of the Kotýz hillfort on the unmarked footpaths before returning back to the YELLOW trail
- Continue on the YELLOW trail traversing the hill to reach the Koněprusy caves after 2 km
- If planning to take the 3 km Zlatý kůň nature trail, follow the green/white diagonal nature trail markers to the top of Zlatý kůň hill (where there is a view over the active limestone quarries) and from there follow the route anticlockwise to return back to the Koněprusy caves car park
- From the car park, continue on the YELLOW trail for 4.2 km, through the village of Tobolka to reach the Koda – horní rozc. junction
- At the junction there is an option to divert to visit Koda cave, in which case, take the BLUE trail for 500m to the right and then return back to the junction
- From Koda – horní rozc. junction, desecnd on the ZELLOW trail for 2 km to reach the bridge over the Berounka after 2 km
- If wanting to visit one of the restaurants in Srbsko, cross the bridge and then return back to catch the train from Srbsko station
