*A 10 km tour of Prague’s famous Zámky hillfort, via Čimické and Bohnické údolí*

  • Overlooking the Vltava river just north of Bohnice village, the rocky promontory called Zámky (‘castles’) is very well named. The 6ha triangular promontory was occupied (and probably fortified) by at least five different prehistoric groups, starting with the Řivnáč people who dominated late Stone Age Central Bohemia around 3000 BC and enclosed the site with a wooden palisade (see the Roztoky – Řivnáč walk discussion for a little more information on this intriguing period of Bohemian prehistory).
  • After the demise of the Řivnáč culture, Hradiště Zámka was occupied again in the Bronze Age and in the early Iron Age, but the most visible (and final) fortifications on the site derive from a Slavic fortress probably constructed in the 8th century AD. The Slavic occupation of Zámky seems to have met with a violent end at the conclusion of the 9th century – the fortress walls were destroyed by fire.
  • With easy access, 4000 years of prehistoric occupation, and the opportunity to walk around the perimeter of the whole site, Hradiště Zámka is one of Prague’s most interesting (and least visited) ancient sites. For those willing to make the trip, there are also excellent views over the Vltava river from the western edge of the fortress.
  • The hillfort site is located just off the marked hiking trail that runs through the surprisingly pretty Čimické údolí. This shallow wooded valley is lined with ancient (600 million + years old) slate rocks and runs from the residential Prague district of Čimice. It slopes gently downhill towards the Zámky promontory. In dry weather the wide mud track is suitable for walks with a buggy, and the path is easily navigated as far as the entrance to the Zámka fortress.
  • For walkers comfortable descending the relatively steep path to reach the Vltava, there is an excellent circular tour available, with a short section along the Vltava cycle path and then a (relatively steep) re-ascent through the densely forested Bohnická valley (which like Čimická) is a protected nature reserve. The path emerges close to the attractive village of Staré Bohnice, which is a village conservation zone. The village dates from the mid 12th century, when the church of St. Peter and Paul was consecrated (note – walkers with buggies who came down Čimické údolí can take an easy short cut across the fields to reach Staré Bohnice).
  • From Staré Bohnice, it is a short walk walk to Čimice, either along the streets, or back along Čimické údolí. There are regular buses to Čimice (and somewhat less frequently from Staré Bohnice). For those driving, there is a parking area in the village of Čimice.
  • The full circular walk is 10.6 km, including the circuit of the hillfort and a return via Čimické údolí, and involves 220m of height gained-lost on the journey. (Note – it is 9.8km returning to Čimice along the Bohnice streets). There is a pub in Staré Bohnice (the Weranda restaurant) which should be available for refreshments.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’  to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.cz site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

  • Start the walk at bus stop Čimice (there is a parking area close by in the street Na Zámkách)
  • Take the BLUE hiking trail westwards, past the village pond and enter the Čimické údolí nature reserve
  • Follow the BLUE trail for 2 km until the point where the trail is about to descend the steep path to the Drahanská valley (there is a large ugly water pipe on the right side). This is the point of the entrance to the hillfort area – see first picture below
  • Note walkers with buggies are advised to turn back at this point – there is however an option to take a short cut to Staré Bohnice by crossing the fields on the easy uphill track – see map point 14
  • For a (recommended) circuit of the hillfort, take the right hand path by the bench crossing the field and just before the path turns left, take the footpath into gorse bush area (map point 3). This leads to the footpath which skirts the perimeter of the fort with views down to the Vltava
  • After 400m this path reaches the rocky viewpoint
  • Return back to the bench (and the BLUE hiking trail) by following the footpath along the southern edge of the fortress
  • On reaching the BLUE trail, turn to the left on the descending path (past the ugly pipe)
  • After 600m reach the trail junction of Drahanské údolí. Here turn left to walk along the Vltava, either on the asphalt cycle path or the BLUE hiking trail in the forest just above the cycle path
  • After 1.2 km reach the trail signpost of Zámky and turn left, staying on the BLUE trail heading in the direction of Bohnice
  • After 2 km reach the old village of Staré Bohnice (refreshment options and also a bus stop for those wanting to stop at this point)
  • For the return journey, the shortest walking route back to Čimice is to follow the street Ústavní alongside the psychiatric hospital to reach the main street of Čimická, at which point turn turn left
  • A more attractive return journey is to return back along the BLUE trail for 400m, leaving the hiking trail trail at the U Drahaně road junction. Stay on the U Drahaně street heading north in a straight line for 400m to reach the fields. Cross the fields on the track heading downhill (map point 14) to meet up with the BLUE hiking trail after 360m
  • Turn right onto the BLUE trail which leads back through Čimické údolí to return to Čimice village after 1.7 km
Hradiště Zámka entrance
Hradiště Zámka entrance
Hradiště Zámka, overlooking the Vltava near Prague
Hradiště Zámka, overlooking the Vltava near Prague