Exploring the Tetín viewpoints on the trail of St. Ludmila – 3 km to 10 km walks

The village of Tetín, located a few kilometers from Beroun, is perched on a rocky promontory with dramatic views of the Berounka river. Today, it is a quiet and peaceful place, but towards the end of the first millennium Tetín was a strategically important location in the development of the Slavic house of Přemysl’s embryonic rule of Bohemia. The early Přemyslid rulers established a ring of six powerful fortress around their core territory of Central Bohemia. Tetín was responsible for guarding the approaches from the southwest.
Tetín fortress has close royal connections. It was the home of Saint Ludmila (c.860-921 AD), wife of the Přemyslid dynasty founder Bořivoj I. Ludmila and Bořivoj were the first Christian rulers of Bohemia. After the death of her two sons, Ludmila became of regent of Bohemia for her grandson Václav I (the legendary King Wenceslas). Ludmila’s daughter in law, Drahomíra, apparently became jealous of Ludmila’s influence over Václav, and arranged for the murder of Ludmila in Tetín. She was reportedly strangled with her veil. Initially buried in Tetín, Ludmila’s remains were moved to Prague by her grandson Václav I at the time of her canonization. Ludmila is one of Bohemia’s patron saints.
Today, only the crumbling walls of the small 13th century castle are visible to visitors, but the fortress area remains an inspiring location, with imposing views over the Berounka valley. Next to the castle the Baroque church dedicated to St. John of Nepomuk still stands witness to the importance of the site. The church is built on the early medieval foundations of the chapel that once housed Ludmila’s remains.
Tetín is one of the more important sites in the Český kras region, so appears as a ‘place of interest’ on a couple of the longer walks in the guide. However, Tetín is also a good sole destination for a shorter walk. For those pressed for time, the village can be reached by a short bus trip from Beroun main line railway station (which also has a large park & ride for those driving).
Once in Tetín, apart from visiting the castle site and the Baroque church, there is an interesting 3km educational trail visiting several viewpoints around Damil hill above Tetín. The trail involves around 150m of height to ascend-descend. It is not a difficult trail but the slopes can get slippery in winter, if conditions are icy.
For those with a bit longer to spend on the journey, the Stezka sv. Ludmily trail runs for 7 km from Beroun train station to Srbsko train station (both stations have regular connections to Prague). This is a marked cycle path, but is equally appropriate for walkers, including those with buggies (there is 90m of climbing on this route).
There are a couple of refreshment options in Tetín itself, but if continuing to Srbsko then there are well regarded restaurants either at the station or just over the bridge at the Restaurant U Berounky, which has an attractive terrace overlooking the river.

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Directions

Start the the walk at Beroun railway station (direct trains from Prague). There is also a large Park and Ride next to the station, for those driving
From the train station, join the BLUE hiking trail (which is also a cycle path) in the direction of Tetín
After 2.4 km, just after reaching the start of Tetín village, reach the trail signpost of Damil. Here, the educational trail (marked with diagonal green trail signs) branches off to the right on a footpath. This is 3 km long and leads to various good viewpoints above the village, including Damil hill itself
If following the nature trail it returns to the village square on a different path. If skipping the nature trail, continue on the main BLUE trail along the road through to the village centre
In the centre of the village, pick up the nature trail which visits the castle – fortress area and also take the fottpath that leads around the Church of St. John of Nepomuk, eventuallz returning to the village square
From the square, rejoin the BLUE trail, in the direction of Koda.
After 300m, leave the BLUE trail and turn onto the cycle path which initially leads down Na Knížecí street
The cycle path winds down the hill, crossing the railway to reach the river, and then follows the river to Srbsko railway station (4 km from Tetín)
Note – the station restaurant is a further 100m past the station, and the U Berounky restaturant is on the opposite side of the river, over the close to the bridge