The 7 km educational trail around the fortifications of Terezín

Terezín (Theresienstadt in German), which lies on the river Ohře some 60 km northwest of Prague, is today generally associated with the dark period of Nazi occupation of Bohemia, when the town was turned into a Jewish ghetto where over 30,000 people died, mostly due to malnutrition and disease. However, the fortress has a long history and is one of the most remarkable examples of 18th century bastion fortification. The site has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage tentative list.
The fortress was constructed by Habsburg Emperor Joseph II between 1780 and 1790 to protect the approaches to Prague and the important bridges over the Labe river, which linked Prague with Dresden. At the time it was one of the most sophisticated fortresses in Europe, with complex tiers of fortifications, underground passages capable of being mined, and a unique water system allowing flooding of the moats from the Ohře river.
The fortress defences were never actually tested, although preparations were underway in 1813 to defend Bohemia against an invading Napoleonic army, but the French force was defeated in the battle of Kulm in northern Bohemia and an incursion further south was avoided. For a time, the fortress became a hospital for casualties from the battle.
Similarly in 1866, the Habsburg garrison in Terezín were preparing to repel huge Prussian army of more than 200,000 men, but the army finally engaged (and defeated) the Austrians at the battle of Battle of Königgrätz, near today’s Hradec Králové.
With the advent of longer range artillery at the end of the 19th century, the main fortress ceased to be maintained, but the smaller linked fortress continued in its role as a notorious prison, particularly during the two World Wars. The assassin responsible for the shooting of Franz Ferdinand which triggered the beginning of WWI, was imprisoned here and died of tuberculosis in 1918. In WWII the Gestapo used the prison for securing captured resistance fighters and their families. The supporters of the parachutists responsible for the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich were imprisoned in Terezín.
There are museums and exhibitions in the town dedicated mostly to its somber role during the Nazi occupation. An educational trail follows the ramparts and outer fortifications of the main and secondary fortresses. This trail, with nine information boards in Czech/English, focuses mainly on the remarkable fortress defenses and is well worth exploring. The route shown on the map below follows the trail in the order of the information boards. It is 7 km in total and is almost completely flat. Several of the paths are on grassy ramparts, so might present a challenge with a stroller, particular if wet. There are a few refreshment options in the center of town, including the Czech restaurant Atypyk.

Directions

The trail starts at the parking area Retranchement 5, which is inside the main fortress. If traveling by public transport there are buses to the center of town from Litoměřice and Prague’s Holešovice railway station
From the car park, follow the GREEN hiking trail (and the green-white diagonal stripe educational trail marks) northwards back out of the fortress on the main access road
The trail continues in a clockwise direction around the perimeter fortifications until reaching the river after 1.3 km
At the river, turn off the GREEN hiking trail and continue on the educational trail which follows the river towards the road bridge
Cross the bridge and then take the small loop of trail which highlights the defenses in area between the two fortresses
The trail then reaches the small fortress (used as a prison) which houses a permanent exhibition
Return back across the bridge and continue clockwise around the outer fortifications, still following the green-white diagonal striped trail marks, eventually back to the Retranchement 5 car park