A short circuit in the ancient/modern landscape between Stodůlky and Řeporyje: 7 km
- The residential district of Stodůlky, on the western edge of Prague, might be considered an unusual choice to begin an historic countryside walk. However, this short circuit (which circles around the new Stodůlky developments and visits old villages in the nearby countryside) is a great example of the paradox of urban Prague living. It is a shared landscape where metro stations and shopping centers compete for precedence with ancient trackways and historic churches.
- The 700 year old King’s road, that ran between Prague Castle and Karlštejn, lies just a few steps away from the ultra modern Britská čtvrť residential development (which at the time of writing is completing construction phases 17 and 18). In 1752, Empress Maria Therese decreed that Imperial roads, such as the route between Prague and Karlštejn, should be lined with fruit trees. Maria Therese’s trees have long gone, but new avenues are gradually being replanted to mark the historic pathways.
- In medieval times, exactly half way between Prague and Karlštejn (and just across the fields from today’s Britská čtvrť), stood the village of Krteň, whose Romanesque church is associated with a famous legend. In 1371, King Charles IV fell desperately ill in Karlštejn, his doctors unable to help. Queen Eliška therefore set out on foot to make an offering at the tomb of St. Sigismund in Prague castle. On the way back, while resting at Krteň, Eliška received the joyful news that Charles had recovered. Out of gratitude, the Queen endowed the Krteň chapel with pensions, becoming its royal patron.
- The ancient village of Krteň was unfortunately destroyed in the 17th century, probably by a marauding Swedish army during the Thirty Years War. Eliška’s church, however, survived and today stands alone in empty farmland to the west of Stodůlky. Drivers along the D0 ring road, while queuing to join the D5 highway, might have noticed it and wondered why it stands alone. Now you know.
- The suggested 7 km circuit starts and finishes at Stodůlky metro station, following the historic trail past Krteň church and onwards to the village of Řeporyje. Originally a small farming settlement, Řeporyje grew rapidly in the 19th century with the opening of limestone quarries along the nearby Dalejský valley. This valley is a unique geological feature known for its wealth of rare marine fossils. A separate 9 km walk around this valley can be tacked on to the walk on this page, to create a nicely varied longer walk.
- Řeporyje also has a couple of places worth visiting for refreshments. The first is the microbrewery (map point 8) with its large variety of different beers. For food or simply coffee and cakes, head over to the excellent Bistro Na námesti, a Hejlík recommendation (map point 7).
- The return journey to Stodůlky follows a short nature trail in the attractive pond area just to the northwest of Řeporyje. This small wetland area was created in the last two decades in the former clay mining area of a 19th century brickworks. Close to the wetland area, an open air museum featuring reconstructed 14th century village buildings was opened in 2002. Unfortunately several fires led to its permanent closure in 2013. The museum is now only used by filmmakers needing a devastated medieval village setting. The site can still be seen through a metal fence.
- The route is relatively flat, with just 70m of height to ascend/descend. There is just one short steep footpath section to navigate around the former museum. The paths are a mix of asphalt bike paths, country lanes and farm tracks. On the return to the Stodůlky metro, if in need of additional refreshment a variety of new restaurants and cafés have sprung up to serve the expanding residential developments. Good options include the Hábovka café (map point 2) and Imperial Sushi, considered by recent reviewers as offering some of the best Japanese food in Prague (map point 3).
Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’ to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.
Directions
- This is a circuit which does not follow marked hiking trails, so is best followed on a good map or the mapy.com phone application (recommended)
