Secrets of Smíchov: architectural highlights in the residential area below Strahov stadium – 6 km

• The Prague residential area of Smíchov, just to the north of Plzeňská street, is not an obvious place for a walking route. However, there is a fascinating and eclectic mix of architecture on display for those willing to venture off the classic Prague tourist routes. This route was inspired by an excellent private tour conducted by Smíchov residents, Standa Kryl and Ivana Krylová. It is therefore best undertaken with some awareness of the different building styles and the historic characters who lived in those buildings. This is one of the few walks in this guide where a bit of background reading is useful, before setting off (unless you have some knowledgeable guides, of course!)
• The numbered map markers locate the main interesting buildings that can be discovered on the slopes below the remarkable Strahov stadium. Strahov was built in the 1920’s to host massive synchronized gymnastic events organized by the Sokol movement. The stadium has a capacity of 250,000 spectators, making it the world’s largest stadium (in terms of capacity). It is no longer used for competitive sporting events (except as a training ground for Sparta FC). The extraordinary capacity is therefore only really useful today for major rock and pop concerts.
• Strahov has an ugly history connected with WWII. During the Nazi occupation the stadium was used for a military parade in honor of Hitler’s 50th birthday and subsequently became an assembly spot for Jews, before they were sent to concentration camps. After the war, the stadium it was used as a temporary detention center for German-speaking Czechs awaiting expulsion.
• Most of the remaining highlights of the route are unique residential buildings constructed during the 19th and 20th centuries. There are many modernist and First Republic buildings hidden along these streets, designed by the leading architects of their time. Until the 19th century, this was an open landscape dotted with vineyards. A couple of of these historic estates, dating from the Renaissance and Baroque periods, can also be seen along the route. The most notable of these is the Hřebenka homestead (map point 4) which has undergone multiple reconstructions since its foundation as a wine press in the 16th century.
• This part of Prague has its fair share of famous residents. Perhaps the most noteworthy is the political dissident, Milada Horáková, who was hanged by the Communist regime in 1950. Her family house is located at map point 8.
• Finally, it is worth noting that the route also provides some good views over the Prague skyline, most notably from the edge of Petřín park (pictured in the header photo). For those willing to venture a bit off piste, one of the best views over Prague can be found at the rocky viewpoint, Výhled Skalka (map point 13). This does, however, require a diversion of around 1 km from the main route and the footpath is not really suitable for strollers.
• If the extension to Výhled Skalka is not taken, the route is around 6 km long with 150m of height to ascend and descend, assuming a start and finish on the Plzeňská tram line. Slightly surprisingly, this quite affluent residential district does not seem to yet have a stylish café or bistro to stop off at along the way. For refreshments on this route it is therefore necessary to explore one of many options near the start or finish, close to Plzeňská street. For a top restaurant, try the (Hejlík recommended) Graf 26 (map point 2). For a simple but good café at the end of the suggested route, check out Tomcat Café (map point 15) or the Artisan bakery, Thomas William (map point 15).

Note: click ‘Show on map’ above to go to a full screen version directly on the mapy.cz site. This can be used for online navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file

• The route is best followed using the mapy.com phone application (which can be downloaded for free), and using the building icons for navigation
• To access the route it is probably best to start and finish on the Plzeňská tram line, perhaps starting at the Bertramka stop and finishing at the Klamovka stop (or vice versa)