*Fortresses on the Sázava: a 16 km tour from Senohraby (+ extension to Ondřejov)*

• The Sázava is one of the country’s most scenic rivers, with many dramatic twists and turns as it flows from its sources in the Moravian highlands to join with the Vltava, just south of Prague. The Sázava riverbanks may now attract numerous seasonal visitors, but it was not always the case.
• For some reason, prehistoric settlers travelling through Bohemia and Moravia seem to have ignored the charms of the Sázava river basin. There are few known Stone Age, Bronze or Iron Age sites to be found along its length. However, early medieval lords, seeking new and sparsely populated territories to exploit, clearly decided that the rocky outcrops and terraces overlooking the meandering river provided perfect terrain for their fortresses. Today, the ramparts and ruins of many ancient forts line the banks of the Sázava, creating a romantic backdrop for walks along this most photogenic of rivers.
• One of the most notable sites on the river is the castle of Zlenice, with its ruined Great Tower, which features extensively in the drawings of the famous 20th century Czech illustrator, Josef Lada, who lived in the nearby village of Hrusice (see the possible extension outlined below to visit Hrusice and nearby Ondřejov).
• Zlenice castle dates from the late 13th century, and was destroyed during the tumultuous reign of Jiří of Poděbrad, in the second half of the 15th century. Below the ruin is a popular riverside swimming area and the well known Baštírna snack bar.
• On the opposite side of the river, 2km upstream, lie the ruins of Stará Dubá castle. Stará Dubá is a similar age to Zlenice and has an equally commanding position overlooking the Sázava, but as it is perched on a steep-sided rocky outcrop the upper castle is much less accessible. Near the riverbank the ruins of the impressive lower castle gateway are a short diversion away from the main trail.
• The third fortress located on this segment of the river is by far the oldest and has an intriguing history. Hradiště Lštění was probably founded in the 9th century AD by the Zličané, a Slavic tribe which controlled parts of eastern central Bohemia at that time. The fortress was constructed on a 4ha promontory overlooking the Sázava and was protected on three sides by steep slopes. A massive rampart was constructed to protect the exposed east flank.
• At the end of the 10th century, Lštění fell under the control of the Přemyslid dukes after the massacre of the ruling Slavník dynasty, by Boleslav II. Thereafter, Lštění became part of a ring of at least six strategic fortifications controlled by the Přemyslid dynasty in the 11th century, which protected its core central Bohemian territory (centered on Prague).
• As with most Přemyslid fortifications in older Slavic sites, a church was constructed on the acropolis area. At Lštění the church was dedicated to St Clement (the early Roman bishop, martyred in the reign of Emperor Trajan) . Long after the site had ceased to be used for military purposes and the ramparts abandoned, the church of St Clement remained, its original Romanesque form given a Gothic and then Baroque appearance. Today, the church still stands tall, overlooking the shimmering Sázava.
• By starting (and finishing) the walk in the village of Senohraby it is possible to combine a visit to these three historical sites with sections along the Sázava river and the surrounding forest areas. Senohraby (which is close to the D1 highway) is quickly reached by main-line train from Prague and, if driving, there is a car park at the station. Senohraby became a popular holiday destination at the end of the 19th century when the train line opened. There are a number of grand villas in the area which testify to the affluence of the visitors at that time.
• The main walk, including short diversions to the fortress sites, totals 15.8 km and involves 330m of height gained/lost on the route. The paths are mostly easy on forest or riverside tracks, with short sections along quiet public roads. For refreshments on the 16 km trip, try the Baštírna snack bar below Zlenice castle or the restraurant Franz, next to the Senohraby train station.
• The extended walk visits all the locations described above and then diverts along a scenic trail leading through the villages of Kaliště and Ondřejov (which has some excellent Baroque houses) before reaching the Ondřejov observatory. The observatory is both a working modern scientific institute and a historical museum site. It is well worth a visit. The extended walk is 24.3 km long with 500m height gained/lost.
• From Ondřejov the trail descends to the village of Hrusice, the birthplace of Josef Lada. More information about this section of the walk, and Lada generally is included in the preamble for the Josef Lada, Hrusice and Ondřejov 11km walk
• On the extended walk there are several additional refreshment options, including in the villages of Kaliště and Ondřejov, and at Hrusice, where there are two attractive pubs on the main street.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’  to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions (for the 16 km walk)

• Start (and finish) the walk at the Senohraby railway station (which has regular trains direct from Prague main station). There is a parking area next to the station for those driving.
• At the station, take the YELLOW hiking trail in the direction of Zlenice. On the left side of the path are several examples of the grand country villas constructed at the end of the 19th century
• Continue on the YELLOW trail along the railway line and then descend into the Mnichovka valley to reach Zlenice castle after 2km. There is a short climb up to visit the ruins. Below the castle is a swimming spot (in a relatively calm area of the river) and the popular Baštírna snack bar
• Below the castle, take the RED hiking trail in the direction of Lštění, firstly along the river and then through the village of Čtyřkoly, crossing the river on the road bridge to enter the village of Lštění
• Immediately after crossing the river, turn left onto the BLUE trail in the direction of Hradiště. Follow the trail for 1.1 km as it winds up to the hilltop to find the church of St Clement situated on the acropolis of the old Slavic fortress
• From the church continue on the BLUE trail in the direction of Dubsko
• After 900m, at the Dubsko signpost, turn left onto the YELLOW trail in the direction of Odranec
• The trail follows the ridgeline and then descends to the river to reach the Odranec signpost after 2.5 km. 80m before reaching the signpost, there is a steep unmarked footpath on the left side that leads up to the higher castle ruins, which are reached after a 100m scramble up a slippery slope – this is is an optional detour!
• At the Odranec signpost, take the unmarked path to the left for 250m to reach the lower castle ruins and the Gothic gateway that provided an entrance to the castle for travelers along the river. Return back to the Odranec signpost after this detour, if taken
• From Odranec, turn right along the river, following the YELLOW trail for 1.2 km, passing under the D1 highway. 50m after passing under the highway, take the unmarked path past the the cottages. This short cut leads directly to the footbridge over the river – where the YELLOW trail is rejoined
• Cross the footbridge and if doing the 15km version immediately turn left onto the RED trail in the direction of Zlenice (Note: this is the point where the extension option heads in the opposite direction – see below)
• Follow the RED trail for 2.4 km to reach the Poddubí – outdoor centrum trail junction. Here turn onto the BLUE trail in the direction of Senohraby – note it is the left hand fork of the BLUE trail
• The trail climbs up into the forest are and then descends slightly to reach the Mnichovka valley at Hrušov after 1.5km. Continue along the road for 400m and then ascend on the RED trail to return back to Senohraby station.

Directions (for the 24 km walk)

• For the extended walk follow the instructions above until the third from last bullet.
• After crossing the footbridge over the Sázava, turn right onto the RED trail in the direction of Chocerady
• After 700m at the Poddubí junction signpost, turn left onto the YELLOW trail in the direction of Ondřejov
• Continue on the YELLOW trail for 5 km through the village of Kaliště (possible refreshment stop) , then through Ondřejov village (various refreshment options) to reach the Ondřejov – hvězdárna (observatory) signpost. Here turn left onto the RED trail and after 200m enter the observatory area
• From the observatory, descend though the forest to reach the trail junction of Šmejkalka after 2.5km
• At Šmejkalka join the YELLOW trail and continue on this path to reach the village of Hrusice, the birthplace of Josef Lada) after 1.4 km (refreshment options in the village)
• From Hrusice, continue on the YELLOW trail for 750m to reach the Hubačov trail junction. Here, turn left onto the GREEN trail in the direction of Pod nádražím Senohraby
• The trail follows the Mnichovka stream and reaches the Pod nádražím Senohraby signpost after 1.ákm. Here turn right onto the RED trail and ascend to reach the Senohraby train station after 400m