*From Roztoky to Řivnáč; a unique 5000 year prehistoric journey – 16 km*

• It is difficult to imagine a 16km walk anywhere in the country (or Central Europe for that matter) which features landscape legacies from four distinctive prehistoric and historic cultures that span a period lasting five millennia. Yet this walk, starting in Roztoky, achieves exactly that. The following notes discuss of some key features of those important archaeological periods. Skip to the bottom if you just want directions for a fine circular walk near Prague, which follows the twists of the Vltava river north of Prague (especially if you are not too excited by the archeology stuff!)
• On a promontory named Řivnáč, high above a bend in the Vltava river, late Stone Age settlers built an enclosure to watch over the north/south trade route that was developing along the river. This small settlement was first excavated in the 19th century by physician and amateur archaeologist, Čeněk Rýzner, who uncovered large quantities of Stone Age pottery and tools, of a type not previously discovered.
• The promontory site gave its name to the Řivnáč late Stone Age culture which, archaeologists have concluded, came to dominate the central Bohemian territory for up to 400 years, from around 3200 BC onwards. This cultural group became known both for the unusually dense network of hilltop settlement sites in central Bohemia, some of which were strongly fortified. This is the first known widespread use of such sites in a regional context. It is likely that occupation of such sites, including the Řivnáč promontory itself, had a blended purpose; defensive, ritual as well as an indication of power, especially when located in a highly visible location.
• Despite their impressive hilltop sites, the Řivnáč culture disappeared from the Bohemian landscape around 2800 BC. The reason for the disappearance of this culture and its replacement by a new group – the Corded Ware culture – is a source of continuing archaeological controversy. This new culture, characterized by a regionally consistent approach to burial in single graves with a unique set of grave goods, came to dominate a huge swathe of Central Europe, from Switzerland to the Netherlands and to the east, far into the Russian plains.
• The transition to the Corded Ware culture occurred remarkably quickly, and there is some evidence that this was at least partly driven by the influence of a wave of emigrating settlers from the forest steppes to the northeast , who brought with them a new ideological model centered on the individual (as well as advanced pastoral skills).
• Whether it was the influence of groups of migrants, or simply traders with connections to the east introducing new concepts, hilltop sites such as Řivnáč were abandoned throughout the Corded Ware period. This culture, with its increased emphasis on animal husbandry, seems to have preferred lowland (possibly temporary) sites along river valleys for its settlements, burying their dead in round barrows, often with a symbolic stone battle axe and drinking ‘beaker’ (with its characteristic corded decoration).
• The low lying valleys created by streams flowing into Vltava became home to the farming communities of the Corded Ware culture, which were possibly highly ethnically diverse settlements. Over time, these communities adopted a new emerging cultural model that swept northern and central Europe in the middle of the 3rd millennium: the Bell Beaker culture, characterized by the inverted bell drinking cup found in grave sites across Europe in this period. In Bohemia it seems likely the Beaker culture was absorbed through trade and cultural contact rather than mass migration.
• By around 2300 BC, a new cultural and ideological model appeared in central Bohemia, probably again driven by increasing migration from the north and east, perhaps from the same areas that potentially caused (or forced) the Řivnáč groups to leave their hilltop settlements 500 years earlier. This new culture, which emerged in the earliest days of of Bronze Age, became known as the Únětice culture and it became one of the most advanced prehistoric societies seen in Europe at the time, characterized its unique bronze and copper metalworking technology. The new culture and technology spread across Europe, with Bohemia at its center. It was the dominant culture in parts of central Europe for up to 500 years.
• The Únětice culture was named after the finds made in the 1870’s by Czech physician and amateur archaeologist Čeněk Rýzner, who discovered a significant early Bronze Age cemetery on the Holý vrch plateau area, close to the village of Únětice, just off an old track linking the Prague districts of Roztoky and Suchdol. The site of cemetery today is hidden beneath modern fields, but the landscape remains evocative of the distant past. The hiking trail from Roztoky passes along the rocky Tiché údolí (‘quiet valley’) is lined with craggy viewpoints, used many thousands of years ago as lookout points and perhaps as ritual sites.
• The suggested tour starts in the town of Roztoky on the Vltava river, 7 km to the north of Prague and traverses the whole of the Tiché údolí to reach the village of Únětice (which is famous not only for its archaeological heritage, but also for its award-winning historical brewery, which houses a popular restaurant). From Únětice, the route crosses the ancient fields to reach the village of Úholičky (location of an attractive privately owned chateau, with origins back to the 14th century and a history of ownership by some of the country’s most famous noble families). Úholičky also has a very good local restaurant, the Restaurant Na statku.
• From Úholičky, the trail circles back towards the Vltava to reach the famous Řivnáč fortified Stone Age site and then drops down to pass through Levý Hradec, one of the most important Slavic fortified settlement sites in the country. This was the seat of Bořivoj I, the first documented ruler of the Přemyslid dynasty in the second half of the 9th century. Bořivoj founded here what is considered the oldest church in Bohemia after his conversion to Christianity around 882 AD. There is a well regarded café close to the fortification area.
• The route is completed by the segment along the Vltava river, returning to Roztoky with a last historical stop at the superbly reconstructed moated castle in Roztoky. The castle dates from the 14th century, but was rebuilt in the Renaissance period and is today open for public tours and events. There is a pleasant café in the castle courtyard.
• The total route is 16 km long with just over 200m of height to ascend-descend. There is a mix of different terrain, including footpaths on the hills above the river, but none of the paths are particularly steep (except for the descent path from Levý Hradec – which can be avoided by taking the longer hiking trail down the road). There are several good options for refreshments on the way, as described above.
• For a shorter (10 km) route focusing only on the area around Únětice and Suchdol, see the separate Bronze Age landscape walk.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’  to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.cz site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

• Start the walk in Roztoky, along the Vltava north of Prague. The town is on a main train line and has good bus connections with Prague center. If driving, there are parking areas along the Tiché údolí side road, including at the very end of the road
• From the train station, join the BLUE hiking trail in the direction of Únětice. After 100m the path to visit Roztoky castle turns left, under the railway. The castle area can be visited either now or at the end of the walk
• Continue on the BLUE trail into the side road, Tiché údolí. After 500m the BLUE trail turns left. This can be followed beside the stream at the back of the villas. Alternatively, continue along the street lined with impressive villas for 800m to reach the parking area and trail junction at Maxmiliánka
• From Maxmiliánka continue on the BLUE trail through the scenic Tiché údolí ( ‘quiet valley’ ) for 2.2 km to reach the Alšova vyhlídka trail junction
• A further 70m on the BLUE trail there is an optional (500m) diversion to the right (marked with blue dots in a white border) leading up to the viewpoint on Holý vrch, which is close to the burial site identified for the Únětice culture. This is quite a steep, sometimes slippery path, but the views are good from the top
• From the Alšova vyhlídka junction, continue on the BLUE trail into the village of Únětice. The famous brewery in the town center is located 100m off the main trail (map point 6)
• From Únětice, continue on the BLUE trail for 1.5km to reach the village of Černý Vůl
• Opposite the garden center in Černý Vůl, turn right onto the YELLOW trail in the direction of Úholičky, which is reached in 1.8 km (the restaurant Na statku is on the right 200m from the chateau
• Continue on the YELLOW trail for 2.3 km to reach the trail junction of Řivnáč – hradiště. Here , take the (GREEN trailmarked) 200m diversion path to the left to visit the Řivnáč viewpoint, then return back to the trail junction
• Continue on the GREEN trail for 1.4 km to reach the Slavic settlement area of Levý Hradec. There is an interesting educational trail around the fortification site, which is well worth exploring
• At the eastern corner of the fortification area is an unmarked footpath that leads steeply down the hill to re-join the GREEN trail. This steep short cut can be avoided if desired by following the GREEN trail down the road – but this adds 1.4 km to the journey
• The GREEN trail shortly reaches the river bank and is then followed directly back to Roztoky, which is reached in 3.3 km