Some surprises in the farmland east of Prague – a 20km tour from Uhříněves

Some surprises in the farmland east of Prague – a 20km tour from Uhříněves (with shorter options)

The relatively flat and fertile countryside on the eastern outskirts of Prague provides excellent terrain for farmers, but not (at first sight) for walkers in search of viewpoints and interesting places to visit.
Initial appearances can be deceptive. The many streams that gently flow through the eastern Prague hinterland provided medieval settlers with ideal territory for creating prosperous farming settlements, and for building fishponds. The consequence today is a landscape dotted with water meadows, attractive small lakes and villages that somehow blend modern commuter homes with ancient fortresses and churches. A walk in this landscape offers a surprisingly rich variety of places to explore.
Right in the middle of this farming paradise is the town of Uhříněves, a settlement dating at least to the 13th century when for a period it was owned by the Templar order. With several nature parks on its borders, good public transport connections to Prague (and reasonable car parking options), Uhříněves is an excellent starting point for walks in the area. The best walks start in the mixed forest area, the Obora v Uhříněvsi, located on the edge of the town. This protected nature area was formerly a 17th century hunting area.
Hiking routes from the Obora either head towards the village of Dubeč (on the BLUE trail, which is also a marked educational trail) past a number of attractive fish ponds and farms, or towards Královice and Koloděje (on the RED trail). Both trails are worth exploring separately, either as ‘there and back’ short walks or using public transport at the end point. However, it is possible to combine both trails into a fine circular walk of 20km by traversing the Lítožnice nature area, which links the two routes.
If travelling anticlockwise, the first village visited is Královice, with its (recently reconstructed) 14th century tower fortress. On the edge of the village is the site of an important Přemyslid fortification, possibly dating from the 10th century. The acropolis area probably always featured a church. Today, the 18th century Church of Saint Margaret stands on the site.
The trail then leads to the village of Koloděje, famous for its impressive Baroque Chateau, which was State owned for much of the 20th Century. Koloděje was the summer residence of T.G. Masaryk, the first President of Czechoslovakia. The Chateau is now in private ownership and currently inaccessible.
The return journey starts at the picturesque Lítožnice pond following the new path which runs alongside the lakeshore, and subsequently the Lítožnice stream towards the historical village of Dubeč (which also has a medieval castle ruin). From Dubeč, the signposted educational trail trail passes two further photogenic ponds one of which – Podleský rybník – is designated as a swimming lake. It is believed that Masaryk was a keen swimmier in this pond during his summer trips from Koloděje.
The trail also passes the small Rohožník quarry area, with its elevated seam of quartz rock. This was also the site of various prehistoric settlements, dating back at least 4000 years.
The walk is mostly on easy flat terrain, with a mix of asphalt paths and meadow footpaths which can, however, be very muddy after wet weather. Total height gained/lost over the 20 km length is only 135m. The small lakes and ponds are often frozen in winter, which can be the most scenic season for a visit.
Uhříněves has various refreshment options, while in Koloděje the popular Restaurant No. 110 is just 300m off the main trail, and worth detouring to.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’ to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

Begin the walk at the Obora v Uhříněvsi (located 300m to the east of the main train station on the RED trail) . The railway is probably the most convenient public transport option if travelling from Prague – trains go direct from Prague’s main station taking around 20 minutes). If driving, there are various parking spots around the town, including on the side streets next to the Obora
Start on the RED trail, heading the direction of Koloděje. The trail crosses through the middle of the Obora forested area before joining an asphalt path which is followed for 4km to reach the village of Královice
In the centre of the village turn left onto a side street following the RED trail in the direction of Koloděje (note – the medieval tower fortress to the east of the village centre is under reconstruction and inaccessible)
After a final 300m section on the pavements in Královice, the trail enters the Rokytka nature area and rises on a footpath to the Slavic/Přemyslid fortress site (also named Šance) at U Markéty
At the Šance signpost (where the rampart fortifications and original entrance are visible) there is an option to detour to visit the St Margaret’s church – which stands on the acropolis area of the fortress)
From Šance, continue on the RED trail across the fields to reach the outskirts of Koloděje town in 2.2 km. On the right side is an elevated viewpoint in a newly created park area – which appears to have been designed as replica Celtic ritual area
From the viewpoint, continue into the town reaching the main square in 400m. At the square, if wanting to stop for refreshments, consider diverting to the popular Restaurant No. 110, which is located 300m down V Lipách street on the right side of the square
From the square, continue on the RED trail past the impressive and historic Baroque chateau of Koloděje – which is sadly inaccessible
After passing the chateau gates continue on the RED trail for 400m along the public road. Cross the Rokytka stream using the road bridge and after a further 50m turn right onto a side street (called Na prostřední cestě), leaving the RED hiking trail at this point. (Note – this short diversion avoids walking along a busy public road – with no pavement – and is also 300m shorter than staying on the RED trail)
The side road shortly becomes a farm track, which is followed for 1.2 km across the fields to rejoin the RED trail next to the small airstrip (for model airplanes)
Turn right back onto the RED trail and continue on this asphalt track for 850m – to a point approximately 200m before reaching a large white walled industrial building. On the left side there is a farm track which heads towards the corner of the forested area. Take this track – which may be somewhat muddy
After 750m on this track, reach the dam at the edge of Lítožnický rybník. There is a good path which starts at the top of the dam and continues around the lake, then follows the Lítožnice stream to reach the village of Dubeč after 1.8 km
In Dubeč tpass through the newly created park that overlooks the medieval fortress site (the park includes water features, a small vineyard area and a viewpoint)
At the park, join the BLUE hiking trail, which passes through the medieval fortress ruins. This is also the beginning of the educational trail (with information boards) that runs all the way back to Uhříněves
This final section of the trail back to Uhříněves is 6 km long (and follows the BLUE trail all the way)
It first follows three sides of the V Rohožníku pond, then past the Rohožník quarry (which has a prehistoric settlement site on the hilltop)
The trail then follows alongside the Ričanský stream, passing the deer park at Podleský mill to reach Podleský rybník (in which it is allowed to swim)
From Podleský rybník the trail passes the western edge of the Obora v Uhříněvsi (forest area) to reach the main high street of Uhříněves