Walks to the hilltop castle of Bezděz, a 13th century masterpiece – 3 km to 14 km routes

Bezděz castle is the backdrop to many holiday photos, particularly for families vacationing on Máchovo jezero. It has a dramatic silhouette, perched on a 600m high volcanic hill, and is visible from many miles away. Up close it is equally impressive. Bezděz is the best preserved 13th century castle in Bohemia, constructed by the famous Přemyslid ruler, Otakar II, to protect the trade route from the Czech royal town of Mělník to Zittau in Germany.
Bezděz is also famous as the location where the penultimate Přemyslid ruler, Wenceslas II and his mother Queen Kunhuta, were imprisoned by the Brandenburg family, who controlled Bohemia for a period after the death of Otakar II. The castle was viewed as impregnable and became the main stronghold for the Catholic forces in Northern Bohemia during the 15th century Hussite Wars. In the 17th century, the castle was acquired by the imperial Generalissimo Albrecht of Valdštejn after the Battle of White Mountain. Valdštejn started the process of converting the castle into a monastery.
In the 19th century, the site became popular with romantic artists, including the poet K.H. Mácha, who visited the castle many times on his frequent trips to the region. The marked trail that passes under castle is actually part of the ‘Máchova cesta’, a 60km trail starting in Mělník named in honor of Mácha’s long hikes in the region.
Most people visit Bezděz by driving to the village below the castle, only to discover that the car parks nearest the castle are full, and are directed to parking in fields outside the village. From there it is a 1.5 km walk up the relatively steep path to the castle, with a climb of 200m+. The return journey is along the same path. This will be be busy during the summer holiday period and weekends. Those who succeed in the climb are rewarded with nearly 360 degree views at the top, and the opportunity to visit the interior of the castle on a paid tour (the castle usually closes at the end of October).
A longer, but potentially more rewarding approach, is to visit the castle by using the regional train network. There is a train station serving Bezděz, but it is a 3km walk to the castle from there along a public road. A nicer approach is to use the next station along the line – Okna – and take the attractive 5km walk through the Kokořinsko forest, past the sandstone rock formations, to reach the castle.
For the return journey, consider walking the 8 km stretch of the Máchova cesta which runs from Bezděz to the town of Doksy, which sits on the edge of Máchova lake. Before catching the train, there is always the option of a refreshing swim on the famous white sand beach in Doksy. Okna and Doksy are both on the regional train line that runs from Mladá Boleslav.
The recommended trails for approaching and leaving Bezděz are mostly easy forest tracks, and the only steep section is the climb up to the castle itself. The proposed route (Okna – Bezděz – Doksy) is 14km long, including a small (optional) diversion to the Doksy beach. The height climbed-descended on the route is 340m. There are several refreshment options in both Bezděz and Doksy. At Bezděz village, try the pub U Vejra, which serves good food and has a nice terrace with a view of the castle.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’ to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

If driving direct to Bezděz, park as close to the castle possible and follow the BLUE trail to the Bezděz – pod hradem junction and there turn right onto the RED trail which leads up the hill to the castle entrance (note – the car parks and castle interior have separate tickets, which are purchased directly at the entrances). Return back on the same route.
For the longer Okna-Bezděz-Doksy trip, take the regional train to Okna station and there join the GREEN trail in the direction of Bezděz
The trail junction Bezděz – obec is reached after 4.1 km. There turn onto the BLUE trail in the direction of Bezděz – pod hradem
At the Bezděz – pod hradem junction turn right onto the RED trail in the direction of Bezděz (Hrad). The castle entrance, viewpoints and ticket office are reached after 1 km of climbing
Return back to Bezděz – pod hradem after visiting the castle and stay on the RED trail (which is the Máchova cesta) heading in the direction of Doksy
The trail passes the Renaissance chateau in Doksy (worth a quick detour to visit the small English park) – 6.2 km after leaving Bezděz
Continue on the RED trail to reach the Doksy train station in a further 1.2 km.
If wanting to visit Doksy beach, at the trail signpost next to the station, continue on the RED trail. There is an entrance point to the beach area (payment required) after 200m