Kozel and the archaeological sites in the Kornatický potok nature reserve – 12 km to 19 km

For most of the 19th century, the famous 18th century classicist style hunting chateau of Kozel, located a short distance from Rokycany in western Bohemia, was in the ownership of the Valdštejn (Waldstein) family. In 1871, Count Valdštejn hired an experienced Czech gardener, F. X. Franz, to design an English style park at Kozel.
During his time at Kozel, Franz became interested in the archaeological past lying hidden in the hunting forests belonging to the estate. Over a period of 18 years, Franz investigated more than 400 burial mounds, mostly dating from the middle Bronze Age (around 1700 BC) and also established that the area around the ruined 14th century medieval castle of Lopata, perched on a prominent rock outcrop, was actually occupied in successive archaeological periods, starting around 5000 BC in the Neolithic.
He also explored three vanished medieval settlements destroyed during the the tumultuous 15th century, whose fire scorched remains were buried beneath forest vegetation . Franz’s research methods and drawings were far ahead of his time, and today his findings form the core of the archaeology section in the Municipal Historical Museum in Pilsen.
A marked nature trail (with information boards – in Czech only) explores the different sites uncovered by Franz in the Kornatický potok nature reserve, close to Kozel chateau. The trail runs through the attractive forest landscape and is around 10 km in length. The marked trail actually runs between the Kornatice village train station and the Lopata castle ruin. However, for a circular route, actually starting in Kozel is more convenient and this also provides a chance to see the results of Franz’s main employment – as designer and gardener of the picturesque landscaped park. There are some magnificent huge Rhododendron bushes that are lovely when in bloom in May.
For those interested in just exploring the unique chateau, its park and nearby forest area on an easy short walk, see the separate (4 km) Kozel walk. For those happy to explore both the park and the higher forest area , where the archaeological sites are located, there are various medium length circular routes available, as the forest has many old medieval trackways which can shorten the route if needed. However, visiting all the marked sites and returning to Kozel is, however, a 19 km route, involving 380m of height to ascend/descend. This is the route described below. None of the paths are difficult, but they can be slippery at times.
For refreshments, the chateau has its own café (only open when the chateau is open for tours) but there is a good nice café/bistro – Bezejmenná čajovna – open year round at the main parking area just below the chateau.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’ to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

Start at the main parking area below the Kozel chateau. This is on a side road just outside the village of Šťáhlavy. There are bus connections to this spot from Plzeň and Šťáhlavy also has a regional train station. Note there are smaller parking areas just next to the chateau which can also be used, but these can get full at peak times
Take the BLUE hiking trail from the car park towards the chateau, crossing the footbridge to reach the pond in 250m. Turn right, staying on the BLUE trail as it runs beside the pond
Continue on the BLUE trail for 2.6 km to reach the junction of Hádecký potok, where the BLUE trail meets the nature F.X. Franz nature trail (green/white diagonal stripe markings)
At this junction there is the option to skip a 2 km section of the nature trail (which visits one of the Bronze Age burial sites and the site of one of the vanished medieval villages). To skip this section, turn right (continuing on the BLUE trail)
For the full tour, turn left onto the nature trail. After 500m reach the Hájek burial mound
Continue on the trail for a further 800m to reach the site of the vanished settlement of Nestajov (the moated fortress site is the most visible remains)
Continue for 300m to reach the junction with the YELLOW trail. Turn right onto the YELLOW trail (temporarily leaving the marked nature trail)
After 800m on the YELLOW trail meets the BLUE trail. Turn left onto the BLUE trail and after 300m reach the Lopata castle ruin and archaeological site (climb the stairs to visit the top of the rock area)
Continue from Lopata on the BLUE trail for 1.1 km to reach the Hádek – hájovna junction and there rejoin the nature trail: turn right onto the nature trail
Continue on the nature trail for 3. 1 km (leaving the BLUE trail 250m after the Hádek – hájovna junction) passing first the Hádek burial site on the left and then the Javor moated fortress site before arriving at the Zvoníčkovna trail junction
At Zvoníčkovna there is the option to begin the return journey or continue to visit the third of the disappeared village sites – at Mydlná
If continuing for the final stop, follow the nature trail for a further 1.1 km to reach the site, where the remains of a fortress wall or tower are visible. Then return back to Zvoníčkovna
For the return journey from Zvoníčkovna, take the BLUE trail in the direction of Hádek – háj, which is reached in 2.5 km 9there is a forest restaurant the junction)
At Hádek – háj turn off the BLUE trail and follow the cycle route (on the forest road) in the direction of Kozel
After 1 km join the YELLOW hiking trail and after a further 300m leave the forest road to follow the YELLOW trail past the small lake
Leave the YELLOW trail after 300m to turn onto the GREEN trail in the direction of Kozel, which is reached after 2.5 km
Explore the chateau gardens and grounds following one of the well maintained park tracks before returning down the hill to the rybník
Cross the footbridge again to return to the parking area/bus stop where the Bezejmenná čajovna (café) is located