*A nicely varied circuit in the Kokořinsko sandstone rock areas, starting in Ráj (´Heaven’): 12 km*
- Many amazing sandstone rock formations can be found throughout northern Bohemia, most famously in České Švýcarsko and Český ráj. The formations in the Kokořinsko region (just to the north of Mělník and actually the closest sandstone area to Prague) are sometimes overlooked in favor of the grander and taller rocks in neighboring regions, but the sandstone in Kokořinsko is unique for its variety of colors – the area was most heavily influenced by volcanism.
- A good starting point for some of the best trails through the Kokořinsko rocks is the small hamlet of Ráj (which translates as ‘Heaven’), just a few km north of Mšeno town. Ráj has a pleasant restaurant (map point 10) and outdoor snack bar (map point 9), which are good refreshment options after a circuit in these amazing rocks.
- One recommended 15 km circuit explores the sandstone terrain to the northwest of Ráj. A slightly shorter – but equally varied – circuit in the rocks to the northeast of Ráj is described below. This circuit gives a taste of all the best aspects of the sandstone areas: towering columns and cliff faces, mysterious valleys and ridges with super views. There is an opportunity to scramble though a classic rock maze and even visit a small fortress carved into a sandstone block.
- The suggested route starts by heading southeast towards Mšeno, where it is possible to take a small diversion to visit the Bludiště rock labyrinth. This is just a short route but does involve some steep step sections and narrow rock crevices. It can be skipped if preferred. The Bludiště maze is part of a longer trail that starts in Mšeno. The full trail is described here.
- After leaving the Bludiště area, the route heads north and passes below a small fortress of unknown age, carved into a large sandstone block. There is a good view from the top but note that the (optional) short ascent is unprotected and somewhat exposed. The return leg of the route passes though the village of Olešno, a protected conservation area due to its fine examples of timbered folk architecture, mostly dating from the 19th century.
- The full route is just under 12 km long but is quite hilly, with nearly 500m of height to ascend-descend. If skipping the rock maze and climb up Konrádov rock castle, none of the trails are particularly steep or challenging. This is an excellent route in autumn, when the mixed forests are extremely colorful. The route could also be attempted in winter as the main trails are not difficult.
Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’ to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.
Directions
- Ráj has bus connections with Mšeno and also Mělník. There are a couple of small parking areas near the two restaurants (but these quickly get full in peak season and on sunny weekends)
- Starting at the Ráj trail junction, take the YELLOW trail heading towards Mšeno
- After 1.1 km reach the U Bludiště junction. This is the start and finish of the (optional) Bludiště rock trail – marked with yellow and white diagonal markers (this part of the trail is just 600m long – it is recommended to take it anticlockwise to take the steepest parts in ascent)
- After completing the maze, from U Bludiště junction, cross the road and continue on the YELLOW trail for 200m to reach the Nad Studáneckou roklí junction
- At the junction, turn left onto the GREEN trail heading in the direction of Houska
- After 4.4 km reach the Konrádov rock castle (optional ascent on the unprotected steps – care required!)
- From Konrádov, continue on the GREEN trail for a further 2.6 km until joining with the YELLOW trail, 100m from the Zbrázděný vrch junction
- Turn left onto the YELLOW trail which leads through the village of Olešno and then descends down to Ráj, which is reached after 2.7 km
The trails around Ráj are particularly appealing in autumn, when the colors are superb