Highlights of Jizerské hory, a two day 46 km circular trip: Bedřichov – Jizerka – Bedřichov

The central section of the Jizerské mountains is possibly best known as the location for the famous Jizerská 50 international cross country ski race. In January or February each year since 1968, the challenging 50 km ski race has toured the ridges and valleys, starting and finishing at the ski village of Bedřichov, with the settlement of Jizerka – the highest village in the mountains – at the mid point of the route.
During summer time, for those wanting a scenic, relatively undemanding, two day walk in the Jizerské hory, there is a lot to recommend a 40 km to 50 km circuit starting in Bedřichov, with an overnight stop in Jizerka. The superfit can of course attempt the circuit in a single day! Bedřichov is a good starting option for its bus connections, large (overnight) parking areas and extensive accommodation, for those wanting to spend longer in this attractive mountain area. The historic glass making settlement of Jizerka also has a range of accommodation for an overnight stay at the midpoint – one recommendation is the very good Hotel Jizerka 4.
While it is certainly possible to use the exact Jizerská 50 winter route for this summer (or early autumn) walk, there are alternative footpaths that are not normally accessible to cross country skiers which can be used to create a more varied route. Various different lengths of walk can be created from around 40km to well over 50km.
The shortest outbound walking routes from Bedřichov to Jizerka are around 20 km long. One option follows the paths south east of Bedřichov, passing through the village of Josefův Důl, offering views back towards central Bohemia. This is the one shown in the map below for the outbound route.
Another 20 + km option is to follow the main trackways through the centre of the mountains, passing the peak of Jizera (at 1122m the second highest mountain in the range, which can be optionally ascended) . A variant of this second route is used for the suggested return in the directions below, but adds a 6 km extension to walk part of the historical Hřebenovka ridge trail, above the Jizerka valley. This features some lovely granite outcrops offering super views.
There are many highlights on this fine circular walk. On the outbound route, the trail passes the well known Královka and Slovanka viewing towers (the latter is the oldest iron tower in the country, built in 1887) and after passing through the ski village of Josefův Důl, traverses the hills where the infamous Desná dam was constructed in 1915. Just a year after completion, the dam collapsed releasing a huge wave which killed 62 people in the valley below. The dam was never rebuilt and the remains can be viewed on a short educational trail.
There are a number of refreshment possibilities on the outbound route, including at Královka and in Josefův Důl. There is a snack bar open next to the Desná dam ruin and finally several restaurants on arrival in Jizerka (including in the historical Pyramida and Panský dům buildings, which also have accommodation). If arriving in Jizerka with extra time and energy, consider taking the short nature trail starting in the village, which explores the history of glass making and the natural environment in peat bog area in the valley. The trail has a number of well done information boards.
After overnighting in Jizerka (unless attempting the route in one very long day) the trail follows the Hřebenovka along the ridge before droping down to the Smědava cross-roads, where there is a popular buffet restaurant. The route back from Smědava, passess Jizera mountain following segments of the winter cross country ski trail network passing through meadows and forests that were the centre of glass-making activities in the mountains during the 18th and 19th centuries. Just before return to Bedřichov there is the well known former hunting lodge of Nová Louka, which is now a popular restaurant.
The outbound route is 20 km (excluding the nature trail) and the return route is 26 km (excluding the optional ascent of Jizera mountain, which adds 2 km to the trip, which is really worthwhile if having enough time and energy for the diversion). The total height gained/lost over the whole route is around 1100m. None of the paths are particularly steep or difficult, unless attempting to climb to the top of the granite outcrops or Jizera peak.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’ to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

From the central parking/bus stop area next to Bedřichov – stadium, take the YELLOW hiking trail in the direction of Královka. This leads directly to the lookout tower after 1.2 km
From Královka, take the GREEN trail in the direction of the Slovanka lookout, which is reached in 3.9 km
From Slovanka, take the BLUE trail in the direction of Dolní Maxov
After 4 km reach the train station and junction at Josefův Důl – sklárna. Here, join the YELLOW trail which leads after 3.9 km to the Desná ruined dam
From the dam, continue 6.5 km on the YELLOW trail to reach Jizerka village (overnight stop)
From Jizerka village, join the RED trail in the direction of Pytlácké kameny
After 2.5 km reach the first granite outcrop of Jelení stráň (the rocks can be scrambled up, but the views are better from the next set, Pytlácké kameny)
Continue on the RED trail for a further 1.4 km to reach the Pytlácké kameny granite rocks. These can ascended for a super view – but care is required as there is no protection
Continue on the RED trail for 4.6 km to reach the Předěl junction. Here, turn left onto the GREEN trail in the direction of Smědava
After 2.8 km reach the junction of Smědava – most. To visit the buffet restaurant in Smědava turn to the right, staying on the the GREEN trail for a further 200m
From the Smědava junction, join the RED trail in the direction of Slovanka
After 2 km reach the junction of Pod Jizerou where the optional there and back detour to the Jizera peak begins (this adds 2 km and 150m of climbing to the trip)
From Pod Jizerou continue on the RED trail for 1.3 km to reach the U Knejpy junction and here turn onto the BLUE trail in the direction of Kristiánov
Follow the BLUE trail all the way to Nová Louka (restaurant) and then for a further 650m to the U Nové louky junction. At the junction, turn onto the YELLOW trail which leads back to Bedřichov in 2.3 km