*Step back in time – from the Gothic ruins of Okoř to the oldest Slavic rotunda: an 11 km trip*

• This is personal favourite walk, which starts at the dramatic Gothic ruins of Okoř castle, located just a few minutes’ drive to the north of Prague airport. It follows the Zákolanský stream to reach the Slavic fortified site of Budeč, where the oldest stone structure in Bohemia stands proudly on the hilltop.
• Okoř might be most famous today for its summer music festival, but its spectacular ruined walls and tower have attracted visitors for centuries. Originally a 13th century wooden fortress, constructed on a rocky outcrop immediately next to the Zákolanský stream, Okoř was reconstructed in a Gothic style in the 14th century and then remodeled several times from the 15th to 17th centuries. The castle was finally abandoned by the last owners, the Jesuit order, when they left Bohemia in the 18th century. It slowly fell into its current ruined state, no doubt with the assistance of local housebuilders looking for quality stone.
• Just 5km to the north of Okoř, the steep sided hill of Budeč, overlooks the village of Kováry. This protected plateau area was occupied (and probably fortified) from the late Bronze Age onwards. It was the Slavs, however, who left behind the most noticeable presence at the site. The whole plateau was strongly fortified in the 9th century AD and on the slightly raised acropolis area the Slavs built a famous chapel.
• The Budeč rotunda (usually open for visitors at weekends from May to September) is considered to be the earliest stone construction still standing anywhere in Bohemia. Today, the rotunda is attached to the 12th century tower of the church of St Peter & Paul. The site is most notably connected with the 10th century Přemyslid Duke of Bohemia, Václav I (later and better known to English visitors as Saint Wenceslas from the Christmas Carol). Wenceslas is widely believed to have spent his early years studying in the Budeč church foundation.
• The walk between Okoř and Budeč is on mostly flat and wide farm tracks, apart from the short climb to Budeč. Although the tracks are occasionally and rocky uneven and can be muddy, the path should be reasonably navigable with a buggy/stroller. The route also passes a number of beautifully reconstructed historic water mills, located on the Zákolanský stream. It is an excellent walk even in winter months, when the path will be almost empty.
• Although a partly circular route can be created, the best way to do this walk is to start from Okoř, walk the 5.5 km to Budeč, and return on the same route. It is an interesting path, and returning the same way is not a hardship. A total of 130m height is gained/lost on the route.
• There are several refreshment options in Okoř, including the highly recommended restaurace Okoř (which is also a small family hotel) . In the local area there is strong restaurant competition – the attractive pension-restaurants of V Polích and Dvůr Hoffmeister are both worth a visit (they are located in the next village of Číčovice, and can be reached in a couple of minutes by car from Okoř or in a 30 minute walk along the Zákolanský stream to the southwest).
• In the nearby village of Zájest there is also a well regarded mini zoo, with a collection of more than 100 animals including the popular lemurs and chameleons.

Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’  to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.

Directions

• Start the walk in Okoř (if driving, there is a large paid parking area close to the castle). There are also regular buses from Dejvická, Prague
• From the car park, start on the RED trail, and head towards the castle. If visiting the castle ruins before the walk stay on the left side of the stream to access the castle entrance. After viewing the castle, cross the stream on the footbridge to rejoin the RED trail
• Follow the RED trail away from the village, passing the huge reconstructed water mill, which is partly attached to the castle walls
• The route follows the Zákolanský stream on a lovely section of footpath, past several more attractive mills (including Nový mlýn – pictured below), under the railway viaduct, to reach the road junction after 3.9km
• At the road, turn left following the RED trail marks, pass under the railway and then immediately turn right, still on the RED trail which leads quite steeply uphill to join a partly asphalt track that leads to to Budeč. (Note: if walking with a baby stroller/buggy, a slightly easier route is to take the marked cycle path up the hill, rather than the RED hiking trail. The turn for the cycle path is just 30m after the RED hiking trail turn)
• After 1.1km on the track, reach the Budeč site and the church of St Peter & Paul (the 9th century rotunda is attached to the church). In the field opposite the church, the foundations of another early medieval chapel can be seen
• From Budeč, return on the same path (the RED trail) back to Okoř , or if preferring to shorten the walk, continue on the RED trail for 1km to reach the village of Zákolany, where there are buses back to Okoř (or to the Prague metro system)