*A 10 km circuit in eastern Prague: from Chateau Ctěnice to Jenštejn fortress*

• Ctěnice is something of an oasis of calm amidst the bustle of suburban East Prague. Its small park area manages to host a branch of the City of Prague Museum, a luxury hotel boasting a gourmet restaurant, a bistro/café with pleasant summer terrace, a large riding stable and a finely reconstructed Renaissance chateau (which received a Baroque-Classicist refurbishment at the beginning of the 19th century). It is definitely worth the short trip from Prague centre.
• The relatively flat landscape surrounding Ctěnice is also worth exploring. It is one of the richest areas for prehistoric sites in Bohemia. Two km north of the chateau, the rocky knoll of Zlatý kopec is the site of the oldest known prehistoric settlement in Bohemia (and one of the oldest in Europe) where a family group of the Homo erectus species appears to have established a camp, possibly for overwintering. That was over 700,000 years ago. At that time, Bohemia was warmer than today. The low-lying basin north of Prague was likely to have had a steppe landscape, roamed by wild elephant, a major source of food for Homo erectus. The foundation walls of the ancient hut discovered at Zlatý kopec, were partly constructed from elephant bones.
• Even closer to the chateau, on the edge of the village of Vinoř, the remarkable Vinořský rondel was discovered in the 1980´s. This Neolithic monument was constructed by Bohemia’s first farmers, nearly 7000 years ago – more than 1500 years earlier than Stonehenge. Over 30 similar structures have now been discovered across the country (and over 200 found so far in Central Europe). Their purpose is still unexplained, but it seems likely that these astronomically aligned, palisaded structures – which can measure from 50m to 200m in diameter – had a cult/ritual function.
• The fertile landscape around Vinoř was clearly a popular location for prehistoric settlers. Not far from the rondel location, at least two hillforts were constructed beside the Vinořský stream. These were occupied at various times from the Neolithic period through to the Iron Age and then by Slavic settlers in the early Middle Ages.
• Somewhat more visible in the landscape are the 14th century remains of Jenštejn castle, an important early 14th century fortress, whose most famous owner was Jan of Jenštejn (1348-1400), an Archbishop of Prague during the reign of Václav IV. The castle is open for visits (Thursday to Sunday, April to October).
• All of these locations can be visited on the trails surrounding Ctěnice. The simplest circuit, heading along a cycle path directly to Jenštejn and then back to Ctěnice along the Vinořský stream, is just under 10 km long, with only 50m of height to ascend-descend on the route. It is not a difficult route, but the footpath beside the stream can get muddy and slippery after wet weather. For refreshments, there is a pub in the village of Jenštejn, but save some space to try the new bistro-café in the chateau park (check the opening times before visiting!) The café also serves excellent Sabatovo ice cream.

Note: click ‘Show on map’ above to go to a full screen version directly on the mapy.cz site. This can be used for online navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file

Directions

• Ctěnice chateau can be reached by bus from Letnany. There is a parking area in front of the chateau
• At the chateau, join the YELLOW trail heading in the direction of Vinoř, following the footpath alongside the chateau garden wall
• After 400m the YELLOW trail turns right towards Vinoř. Do not take this turn, but stay on the cycle path (0034) which leads to the village of Podolanka after 3 km
• In Podolanka, turn right onto the YELLOW trail heading towards Jenštejn
• After 600m reach the junction of Jenštejn – na hrázi. Here, join the RED trail which leads directly to Jenštejn castle (HRAD) after 600m
• Return back to the Jenštejn – na hrázi junction after visiting Jenštejn
• At Jenštejn – na hrázi turn left, following the RED trail in the direction of Vinoř
• After 500m watch out for the turning off the road to follow the stream on a narrow footpath
• Continue on the RED trail for 2.4 km and then take the short cut along Telčická street to join up with the YELLOW trail at the Vinoř cemetary
• Follow the YELLOW trail for 2 km to return back to Ctěnice chateau (zámek)