The unique Bronze Age landscape near the Prague district of Suchdol: a 10 km tour
- In 1877, the 32 year old Czech physician and amateur archaeologist Čeněk Rýzner came to stay in the Suchdol mansion of Alexander Brandejs, a leading supporter of the arts in the Prague community. Also staying in the Brandejs house was the artist Mikoláš Aleš, who was greatly taken by some of the archaeological finds that the Rýzner had discovered in the area. Some of these findings were later depicted in Aleš’ paintings.
- Around this time Rýzner made the dramatic discovery of a large prehistoric cemetery close to the village of Únětice, just below the rocky escarpment of Holý vrch. The findings from the graves were shown to belong to a unique early Bronze Age community, dating from around 2000 BC, whose technology and processes were considered among the most advanced in Europe at the time. Similar finds were later discovered across a vast area of central Europe, with Bohemia at the center of this prehistoric culture that shared the same early Bronze working technology and common burial practices. This whole advanced prehistoric central European culture became known as the Únětice culture. It survived for as long as 500 years.
- Sadly, little evidence of this important culture remains visible above ground today, but the landscape in which Rýzner made his famous discoveries is still evocative; rolling agricultural fields dissected by the narrow craggy valley created by the Únětický stream and bordered by the striking ravine created by Vltava river as it flows northwards from Prague.
- A short walk in this picturesque and historical landscape is strongly recommended. The circular route from Roztoky to Únětice, and back via Suchdol (passing the old mansion of Alexander Brandejs, which has a history back to the early middle Ages, but today is 19th century in appearance) is just under 10km. With the optional (but recommended) climb to the viewpoint on Holý vrch the route is 10.5 km, with 170m of height to ascend-descend. The paths are all easy, except the short climb to the Holý vrch viewpoint, which is quite steep and can be slippery. The route passes through the picturesque and well known Tiché údolí (‘Quiet valley’). Most of the route is also a nature trail with various information boards (in Czech only) some of which detail the interesting archaeology of the area.
- The route can be started from either Roztoky or Suchdol, both of which have good public transport options from Prague center. If driving, then the car park at the start of the Tiché údolí, on a side road from Roztoky, is convenient. There are several options for refreshment on the route, particularly in Suchdol, but one recommended spot is the Hospůdka Zvířátka, located on the side road from Roztoky just before reaching the car park.
Note: click ‘Show on Mapy.com’ to go to a full screen version of the route directly on the mapy.com site. This can be used for on line navigation, saved or exported as a GPX file.
Directions
- If starting from the most convenient car park – the Maxmiliánka at the end of the road from Roztoky to Tiché údolí – take the BLUE hiking trail in the direction of Únětice. This is the Tiché údolí trail
- After 2.2 km reach the trail junction of Alšova vyhlídka.
- 60m further on the BLUE trail is the turn off for the climb to the viewpoint (marked with blue dots in a white border). The viewpoint is 480m from the junction – note there is a turn to the right for the final section along the ridge to the main viewpoint which does not have a marker. There are excellent 360 degree views from the top, including of the Prague skyline
- Return back to the Alšova vyhlídka junction after visiting the viewpoint
- At the junction, take the YELLOW trail in the direction of Výhledy. The trail climbs up to old Suchdol, passing the mansion of Alexander Brandejs, before reaching the main road after 1.6km
- The YELLOW trail finishes at the Výhledy bus stop. Here either catch a bus for two stops to the Suchdol Kamýcká stop, or walk along the small side road which runs parallel to the main road for 1.3 km to reach the Kamýcká trail junction, where the YELLOW hiking trail restarts
- Follow the YELLOW trail in the direction of Roztoky – there are views to the right of the Vltava valley. The trail then enters the Schdol woods and descends gently towards Roztoky
- The YELLOW trail arrives the Svojsíkovy sady junction after 2.7 km. Here either turn left onto the BLUE trail which leads directly back to the Maxmiliánka car park in 800m or take the (more interesting) parallel side road past the large villas. This road passes the outdoor pub Hospůdka Zvířátka and reaches the car park in 900m


